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Posts Tagged ‘south-australia’


Monday, 11 Mar 2024

In the morning, we headed into Port Augusta. Finally, the flies seemed to be less of a problem than they were farther north. So, we spent the morning at the Arid Lands Botanical Garden. I had never before been to a botanical garden that was not lush and thick and green. So, this was a new experience. We saw a few new bird species here, as well as a shingleback skink! It was so neat! It let us get really close to take it’s picture. It’s tail was large and stumpy and almost the size of its head. I’m sure it’s a good decoy for predators.

Shingleback Skink
We found Kangaroos hiding in the garden.

It was still incredibly hot, so after an hour outside wandering around the garden, we were ready to get into the air conditioning at this point. So, we headed to the landromat and also the grocery store to top up our supplies. We had a look at the weather forcast for some of the other towns coming up on our route, and decided to leave South Australia as soon as we could, as just across the border into West Australia, the temps dropped about 10 degrees celcius. We were all really looking forward to less sweating and feeling hot. So, we headed in that direction planning to spend 2 really good long days on the road to get away from the heat.

About an hour later, Darren pulled over and announced that the power stearing on our vehicle had stopped working. So, we drove to the next town, which was Kimba for the night. They had a really lovely free campground with showers, flushing toilets, an awesome play ground and lots of space.

Australian Ringneck Parrot spotted at Kimba

Tuesday, 12 Mar 2024

In the morning Darren got in touch with someone who could send him the pump he needed to fix the car. Early in the morning, it was cool enough to go for a walk, so I took the kids to the nearby Roora Walking Trail. This trail was a 6 km return walk past animal sculptures made of metal. We found another shingleback on this walk and read signs along the way that told us about the early pioneer days in the area. At the end of the walk before returning, there was a large sculpture of Edward John Eyre and his aboriginal guide. It was this man who discovered Lake Eyre and who the Eyre Peninsula and the Eyre Highway are named after. He was the first white man to travel much of the southern outback in the 1800s. We learned of his many near death experiences, due to the heat, lack of water and lack of food on his journeys.

When we got back from our walk, the heat had returned, so we didn’t do a lot more that day. The kids played at the park at the campground, and we discovered that if we got wet in the shower and then kept our clothes on while wet, that we felt much better. The temperature was around 38 Celsius (100 F).

We also learned that while it was not nice to be stuck with a broken vehicle, we were actually stuck for another reason. The Eyre Highway that we were heading towards was actually just closed due to flooding. The floods were caused by once in a 100-year rains in the desert. In the desert north of the Nullarbor they got a year’s worth of rain in a few days. So, we were at least very thankful that we weren’t stuck in the floodwaters, and that we had showers and toilets to use while we waited.

Wednedsay, Mar 13 2024

On this day, we checked out he playground in the town of Kimba. They had a jumping pillow. I had never seen anything like this before in a park. But, it was awesome, and the kids loved it! Near the end of the day, I bought some electrolyte tablets to put in our water and found that we felt much better after having these. All the heat and sweating had depleted some of our mineral stores. When we spoke to some locals, we found that it normally was not this hot here, but that they were having an unusual heat wave for that time of year.

Bouncing Pillow at the park in town.

Thursday, 14 Mar 2024

Darrens package with the needed part arrived in the morning and the vehicle was fixed by lunch time. The Eyre Highway was also open again, so after lunch we packed up and carried on with our journey. Before leaving Kimba, I got a picture of the halfway across Australia sign. It’s hard to believe that we still have so far to go before we arrive at our destination, but we will be going at a much faster pace now, as most of what is ahead of us is barren desert with only a few things to stop and to see. There are a few things on our list though, so after 3 nights of rest and recuperation we carried on west. We drove to Cedunda and spent the night just outside of town in a quiet camp site just off the road.

Giant Galah Parrot Sculpture at Kimba

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Friday 8, Mar 2024

That afternoon we Continued north towards the beginning of the Oodnadata track. A road which leads to the small town of Oodnadatta. This town began as a railway town in the early days of Australian Outback settlement. While the railway was being build, supplies were brought in by camel, along the Oodnadatta track. It is a famous route that is interesting for its historical significance and also because of the landscape and plant and animal life.

Walking along the old Ghan Railway
Flies
More flies. They seemed to want to land on us adults much more than the kids.
Finding what was left of the railway.

We decided to stop for the night just after beginning track. Before sundown, we took a walk along where the first railway was built to look at one of the old siding buildings that helped support the steam trains when they came through. This place was really very neat. It was in the absolute middle of nowhere… And it was very hot, dry and desolate. We didn’t see any animal life except flies, which were exceptionally bad. A local further along the track told us, that the flies are not usually anywhere near as bad. I am glad to hear that, because I was wondering how anyone could handle flies like that on a permanant basis. The plant life was very determined. It seemed like nothing could live in such a place, but I found succulants and flowers, and there were small shrub like trees as well. The colours of the sunset on the desert landscape were quite beautiful.

Small Desert Flowers

Saturday 9, Mar 2024

The flies and heat were so bad, that we decided to just drive all day long, so we could be in the air conditioned, fly free car. We drove past, Lake Eyre, which we were hoping might have water in it, but it didnt. Lake Eyre is the lowest point in Australia at 15m below sea level. It is usually just a salt flat, but when enough rain falls in Queensland and North Australia, it moves across the country and fills up this basin. Bird, plant and fish life abound when this happens every so many years. The desert comes alive.

Lake Eyre. Just salt out there.

Since there wasn’t much to see here, we continued to Coward Springs. This was a place where travelers used to come for water and a resting place along their journey. The original bore is still in place. We got to bathe in the same place as the original people from back in the day. It was a very refreshing stop despite the flies. The man who runs the place also has a small stand of date palms that he harvests each year. We were able to taste the fresh dates… they were different than any date I’ve tried. They were warm, gooey and buttery. Besides travelers, and dates, this man also ran cows on this land. It is unbelievable to think that people farm this land. We kept asking ourselves, what do the cows eat out here? But, they must be adapted to eating acacia and other desert shrubs.

Coward Springs
Little Succulents. They were full of moisture.

After Coward Springs, we kept going until we reached the town Oodnadatta. We stopped for dinner and the kids played at a park for a little while. Then, since we still didn’t want to be outside in the heat or deal with flies, we decided to drive 3 more hours to Coober Pedy. We were also very tired of the dust. The track was not sealed, and the type of dust out here just worked its way into every crevasse of the caravan. We even found it inside the fridge. We wanted to be able to clean it up only once. The max outside temperature reading from our car for the day was 45 degrees Celsius (113 Fahrenheit). The total distance we travelled in this day was just under 600 km. After arriving in Coober Pedy, we spent an hour cleaning up the dust and then went to bed.

Beautiful Desert Sunset

Sunday 10, Mar 2024

We spent quite a good portion of the day in Coober Pedy. This town is known for being a place where people live underground. They build their houses and shops into the sides of hills. They are also known for mining opals. So, we had a look around at the streets and what this looked like, before having a go at ‘noodling’ as they called it, for opals in the leftover piles of dirt that had already been mined. We didn’t find a lot, but it was fun anyway. We did find quite a bit of gypsum, which is interesting, but not valuable.

Noodling for Opals

The flies and heat were still pretty bad, so we went as far as we could in the last part of the day. All the driving on this day was literally like driving on mars. There were no trees, and it was just flat as the eye could see. It was incredible, to drive across this landscape for hours on end! I didn’t get any photos of this because it just doesn’t look like anything on the screen. It’s very hard to take photos of a landscape where there isn’t anything in the distance. We stopped for dinner at Lake Hart and then kept going until we were just north of Port Augusta and called it a day. Total kms covered this day was 500. The last 2 days have been our longest on the road so far.

Lake Hart

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